dimanche, juin 08, 2008

Vertiges mosellans (partie 1)

Deux journées en Allemagne, dans le fantastique vignoble de la Moselle, m'ont permis de faire de belles rencontres et d'apprécier le très belle qualité des vins de Riesling du millésime 2007.


Une halte à Leiwen chez Nick Kowerich, jeune vigneron passionné qui se devoue corps et âme à 6 hectares, secondé avec charme et efficacité par son épouse, s'est révélé un excellent moyen d'appréhender les particularités du travail de la vigne en Moselle.


(ci-contre, les époux Kowerich au pied de leur vertigineux vignoble de Laurentiuslay, et Nick aux commandes du treuil. La vue du sommet sur le village de Leiwen, et la descente, frissons garantis..).


Pour accéder à certaines de leurs 30 parcelles, les Kowerich, comme la majorité de leurs voisins propriétaires sur les coteaux les plus abrupts (dont les pentes avoisinent parfois 60 degrés), utilisent désormais des treuils, sortes de motorails qui permettent de s'élever vers des parcelles autrement quasiment inaccessibles.



Le vignoble de laurentiuslay, exposé sud/sud-ouest et dominant le villagede Leiwen (jumelé avec le Mesnil-sur-Oger, les 1500 habitants, en majorité vignerons, connaissent bien nos vins de Champagne...), est un des plus prisés de la Mittel-Mosel, partie centrale située entre Trèves et Piersport.
Son exposition favorise des températures assez élevées, et une maturation idéale des raisins. Il n'est donc pas rare d'y produire des vins issus de raisins atteints par le botrytis, les fameux Auslese, Beerenauslese et Trockenbeerenauslese, qui comptent parmi les grands vins liquoreux de la planète.

Un Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (dites TBA) Leiwener Laurentiuslay 2005 produit à hauteur de 100 litres seulement par les Kowerich (350gr de sucre, 6,5% d'alcool seulement...) s'est révélé proprement magique par son intensité de saveurs et finesse onctueuse, soutenue par une indestructible acidité. Et mes vins secs ou demi-secs (Kabinett, Spätlese...ne sont pas en reste).
Les sols d'ardoise bleues et grises, traversés de quartzite, sont particulièrement durs et apportent aux vins d'inimitables arômes de fumé et de silex. La taille en échalas alterne avec le palissage, et de très vieilles vignes non-greffées subsistent encore dans les coteaux. Du sommet, la vue est exceptionnelle, et le regard se perd dans les méandres du fleuve. On se surprend à songer à l'harassant labeur subi depuis des générations par les hommes et les femmes qui ont défrichés ces vertigineux coteaux, pris soin de ces vignes pour le clergé local entretenant les murets de pierre, bien avant que les treuils, arrivés à la fin des années 80, ne viennent un peu soulager leur tâche....

Il faut redécouvrir ces vins, digestes et désaltérants, dont tout le monde ou presque a oublié qu'à la fin du XIXème siècle ceux provenant des meilleurs coteaux, tel le Laurentiuslay, se vendaient dans toute l'Europe plus chers que les plus grands Bordeaux....A méditer !

75 Commentaires:

At 7:51 AM, Anonymous Iris said...

C'est rare, qu'on lit des articles sur les vignobles Allemands sur des blogs en France - merci, de souligner la beauté du paysage et la difficukté du travail (et pa qualité des vins), qu'on voit aussi chez ce vigneron (en bio) bloggueur de la Moselle : http://bildergeschichten.geblogt.org/archives/253-Burger-Hahnenschrittchen-Richtig-steil....html

La vigne s'appelle "Burger Hahnenschrittchen": Pas de coq de Burg :-)

cela donne aussi le vertige!

 
At 7:45 PM, Anonymous Hub said...

Bravo pour l'ouverture d'esprit dont vous faites preuve. Les vins allemands sont insuffisamment connus de ce côté du Rhin. Comme j'en parlais récemment à un ami, pourtant pas tout à fait ignorant en matière de vin, il m'a avoué ne pas avoir su qu'on faisait du vin en Allemagne ...

Ceci dit, n'oublions pas la Moselle française, où une poignée de producteurs valent également le détour. Un livre a été consacré récemment aux vins de la Moselle : http://www.oenotheque.net/article-13700535.html

 
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